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Post by Chris Reibert on Feb 5, 2013 23:11:57 GMT -4
I got two new batteries in the mail for the mCP X BL. All charged up and hoping for a decent day this week to break it in!
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Post by heliharry on Feb 6, 2013 1:40:42 GMT -4
I hope you get that great day of weather and all flights are as you hoped.
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Post by sgmason on Feb 14, 2013 16:15:13 GMT -4
Well its time to start working on the 600 again, just got my BW head from CRModels. I might give it a little polishing job for the heck of it before I put it on.
Next step is to get my 3 axis gyro and she will be ready for spring flying.
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Post by Chris Reibert on Feb 14, 2013 18:10:37 GMT -4
Yay!!!!
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Post by sgmason on Feb 14, 2013 18:55:29 GMT -4
9 days to travel 4 hours, it must be some sort of USPS/Canada Post record ;D
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Post by sgmason on Feb 18, 2013 21:49:05 GMT -4
So while waiting for my HK parts for the scratch build plane I decided to install the BW head I got from crmodels. It was easy enough to put on, but my pitch is far from equal +/-. I know others have had a similar problem and its a simple fix so I am not too worried about it. Just means I have some reading to do to find the solution ;D
It sure does look good sitting on her, even got rid of that blade jitter I had.
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Post by Valkman on Feb 19, 2013 4:42:27 GMT -4
Set your TX pitch stick to 50% ( output ) and adjust the links to the grips until it is at zero pitch. If your travels (end points) are the same each direction you should have equal throw each way. After that I would wait till you get you E Stab on as that will more than likely have a section to adjust pitch settings.
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Post by sgmason on Feb 19, 2013 9:30:56 GMT -4
Set your TX pitch stick to 50% ( output ) and adjust the links to the grips until it is at zero pitch. If your travels (end points) are the same each direction you should have equal throw each way. After that I would wait till you get you E Stab on as that will more than likely have a section to adjust pitch settings. I still need to get a flybarless pitch gauge too, but this is off far enough that you can see it without the gauge To get to near visually 0° I have to have the stick at about 36% of its positive travel. Like I said I wasn't too worried about it, and I know I will get it together before the new flying season is over, maybe even before it starts way up here in the frozen north ;D I just finished the knife that I am putting up for sale on the knife makers forum. That is what is paying for the FLB control unit. Its a little big for opening packages so I didn't offer it to you
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Post by Valkman on Feb 19, 2013 11:50:14 GMT -4
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Post by sgmason on Feb 19, 2013 12:12:19 GMT -4
I like how the first one mounts and I could probably getaway with using a regular digital angle gauge from a wood working store. A bit more expensive than HK, but I completely forgot about needing one when I made my order. With the trouble I have gone through to get my shipping changed to EMS I am not going to try add another product.
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Post by Chris Reibert on Feb 19, 2013 18:18:40 GMT -4
Was on your FB, these knives look sweet George!
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Post by sgmason on Mar 13, 2013 11:05:11 GMT -4
Thanks for the knife complements, I do my best to make them worth the money I ask for them SO I am getting ready to order up some 4s packs for my 600 in the next week or so. My plan is to run two 4s packs in series to make 1 8s setup. What I am a little confused with is the size of pack I need to get. When I was setup for a single 6s pack it was easy, 5000mah. What mah should I be looking at for my 4s batteries? Once again I have no intentions of flying 3D and want to put this air frame in a scale fuse in the future. Now its off to drool over the Naza H with GPS that I can't afford right now but I think the MSH/Ikon setup will do me fine when I order it:P Maybe I should head out to the shop and make a couple more knives so I can afford the Naza H w/GPS
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Post by Chris Reibert on Mar 13, 2013 17:33:09 GMT -4
Not completely sure about the pack question. I two am about to do my first series 2pack setup at 12s. Shoot a PM to Bryan Rovpilot. Pretty sure his Chaos is 8s if not he can prob answer your question Wish I knew more but I only know what I know and I'm the first to admit if I don't have the knowledge. I'm scared sh1tless to go 12s for the first time.
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Post by sgmason on Mar 14, 2013 10:36:58 GMT -4
Thanks Chris, just sent him a PM asking for info. I don't think I will ever go 12s, I have no need for that much power or the want of spending the money to replace my ESC. The only reason I am going to 8s is to give me a bit more headroom with my HS and to run cooler for when I finally get a fuse for it. I took my MCPx out to the golf course the other day, but didn't even get through one battery before I couldn't fly The best I can figure out is that it was too wet and I got some damp snow on the ESC or main board. I hovered around for a bit no problem, did a couple of circuits then tried to flip to inverted. The failed flip was all my fault, a little slow on the sticks and did a figure 9 into the wet snow. After that all the MCPx would do is stutter while the servos jumped all over the place. I took it back home and let it sit for a couple hours and everything was good again, but the light was gone by then Now that i have time to play again it has cooled off and gotten breezy here so no MCPx flying till the winds die down again. I am still waiting on the props for my 2 airplanes too. Hope they get in soon because I want to see if my scratch built plane actually flies before I make my next HK order. If it doesn't fly I will just scrap the air frame and buy a kit to put the electronics into. The air frame only cost me 3 sheets of dollar tree foamboard, some tape, a few hot glue sticks, and a few hours of my free time, so its no big loss if I scrap or crash it
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Post by osidak on Mar 14, 2013 16:52:16 GMT -4
When going from 6s to 12s you are doubling the voltage so in theory you could halve the amps and keep the same flight times. That is assuming you are also reduce the total watts pulled by half as well (wattage will depend on the kv of the motor)
So look at the motor you plan to use and figure out the wattage it will pull and that will dictate the size of battery you need to get the flight times you want.
With 8s you are not doubling the voltage you are only increasing the voltage by ~ 25% and thus reducing needed amps by the same amount.
ie a 6s 5a battery is able to provide 111 watts which is the same as a 8s 3.75a battery
The only variable here is the power the motor will consume over the time period you want to fly
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