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Post by Jonathan Ott on Dec 15, 2012 17:54:05 GMT -4
Okay, I'm installing my new BW head on my Chaos 600. I have the Jesus bolt in the top hole and when I'm at mid stick, servos, linkages and swash level, I have about +9.5°.
I'm using the stock main shaft.
I can't really lower the swash, as the elevator arm is a fixed length, and sets the datum for the aileron links.
Is there a shorter DFC link, or do I need a differnet main shaft? Or am I missing something else.
I've not installed my FBL unit yet, just getting everything mechanically zeroed first.
Jon
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Post by Dr. Evil on Dec 17, 2012 11:24:01 GMT -4
Okay, I'm installing my new BW head on my Chaos 600. I have the Jesus bolt in the top hole and when I'm at mid stick, servos, linkages and swash level, I have about +9.5°. I'm using the stock main shaft. I can't really lower the swash, as the elevator arm is a fixed length, and sets the datum for the aileron links. Is there a shorter DFC link, or do I need a differnet main shaft? Or am I missing something else. I've not installed my FBL unit yet, just getting everything mechanically zeroed first. Jon Sorry for the delay to reply, just saw this Jon. I've my bolt set on the very top hole as well. I did not have to shorten or lenghten the linkage rod as I thought I needed to. I kept the stock lenght of the BW linkage arm stock just as they came to me in the mail. I am currently getting 12+/12- of pitch and could go more on either side if I wanted to once it was set to the BW gyro program on my PC. I am not sure about this but if you're only getting +/- 9.5 degrees currently from using your Tx as a setup it may be that once you are on the BW program, those numbers may change. Again, I have plenty of room on my main shaft to go even more either way and everything is stock on my 600. I hope this helps.
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Post by Jonathan Ott on Dec 17, 2012 12:58:31 GMT -4
I just measured my linkage arms, just the aluminum part, and it's about 4.5cm (45MM) + however much is gets recessed into the top part.
Can you get me a measurment of your linkage?
I do remember when I was doing my initial setup, the with the BW head in the top hole, witht eh swash bottomoed out against the top bearing block, that is where I got 0° pitch. THis leads me to believe my linkage rods are too long.
Jon
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Post by Dr. Evil on Dec 17, 2012 14:40:48 GMT -4
Ok, I will do it when I get home from work this evening.
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Post by Chris Reibert on Dec 17, 2012 17:40:02 GMT -4
Ok Jon here goes. I actually just noticed for me to get mechanical 0 that all the arms are actually down some. Reason it didn't bother me at all is because I really don't need much negative just about +6 or so o fly scale. Here are some pics. Hope they help!
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Post by Jonathan Ott on Dec 17, 2012 19:02:24 GMT -4
Here's what I got: This is center stick +7.5° pitch This is my linkange length. If it were about 11mm shorter, I might get 0° at center stick. Anyone know if the linkage is tapped all the way thorugh?
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Post by Dr. Evil on Dec 17, 2012 19:08:29 GMT -4
Jon, here is a pic of my linkage from the BW head. I believe they measure out to be the same as yours. I also measured the main shaft from the distance between the bottom of the head to the top of the main shaft lock ring (which sits on top of the top main bearing block) which comes out to be 52 mm. Again, there are plenty of room left going either way if I really wanted to go beyond +/- 12 degrees. I hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions and keep us posted on your progress with the setup....good luck!
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Post by Chris Reibert on Dec 17, 2012 19:09:45 GMT -4
Can you screw it in anymore? My is around +6 to when I center all my links. Guess I really never looked closely. I barely use much collective when I fly scale.
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Post by Dr. Evil on Dec 17, 2012 19:14:01 GMT -4
LOL....I am just realizing that I am missing your whole question. You wanted to know what is needed to be done to get 0 degrees at mid stick right? Well, to be honest...I think I am not getting 0 degrees at mid stick but just can't remember if it's a little above or below. That being said, it's only off by a tiny bit which doesn't bother me cause I don't do any 3D. I am guessing it's more important for someone who does.
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Post by Jonathan Ott on Dec 17, 2012 19:40:26 GMT -4
Yeah, I'm not a stick banger, but I like to have a symetrical setup if I want to let one of my better pilot friends try it out.
I want to shorten the links, but not too sure.
Before I took the pictures, when I bottomed the stick out, I was still +1°
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Post by Chris Reibert on Dec 17, 2012 19:42:35 GMT -4
Give RCA a call or send Bryan Rovpilot or Mattox a PM
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Post by Dr. Evil on Dec 17, 2012 21:03:33 GMT -4
Another option is to adjust the ball links from the swash down.
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Post by chumley on Dec 17, 2012 21:25:36 GMT -4
I used the middle hole and lengthened the pitch links a little. Attachments:
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Post by Dr. Evil on Dec 18, 2012 12:05:39 GMT -4
Guys, correct me if I am wrong but after thinking this thing over and over....the reason why one would want 0 degrees at mid stick is so that a 10-12 degrees +/- of pitch can be achieved correct? Having it mechanically set at 0 degrees on the main shaft corresponding to the Tx being at mid stick is ideal giving enough room on the main shaft to go either +/- equally. That said, I have achieved a +/- 12 degrees with room left on the shaft to go even more as I 've mentioned, so I don't really see a good reason why at 0 degrees that the stick must be exactly in the mid point position??? Again, please correct me if I am wrong about this.
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drev
FUN FLYER
Posts: 198
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Post by drev on Dec 18, 2012 15:09:10 GMT -4
The zero at mid stick thing came about with the 3D pilots wanting the same +/- blade deflection for flying inverted. There are no "set in stone" rules on where your 0* has to be in relation to the Tx stick. Alot of the scale guys/gals set it according to their personal preference b/c they don't need or want alot of negative pitch. Drev.
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