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Post by Jonathan Ott on Dec 18, 2012 16:08:58 GMT -4
Drev, how is your setup? When I had the flybar head on, I was zero degrees at center collective, and had +12/-12. I was hoping I could get the same with the BW head.
This would be really easy to fix if it were a direct to swash servo setup (like a 500/550), but with the 'A' arm being a fixed height, it throws a handfull of sand in the gearbox (figuratively speaking).
Jon
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drev
FUN FLYER
Posts: 198
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Post by drev on Dec 18, 2012 16:45:09 GMT -4
My setup was 0* at midstick with the FB,+/- 12*. I am still learning. I had a bad crash & did a total rebuild, including going to the BW head. Haven't had it back in the air yet & final setup is still 'up in the air' (pun intended). I really want to go scale with probably the 600 size MD500 G-JIVE fuse if it's in stock when I'm ready or a Jetranger. No raised tails yet. When the weather warms up in the spring we'll figure all that out. With a scale body I see no need for gobs of negative pitch (no inverted flight). I'm not really into "smack"3D,but I like that big air stunt flying with a pod & boom heli. Drev.
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Post by Dr. Evil on Dec 18, 2012 17:43:57 GMT -4
The zero at mid stick thing came about with the 3D pilots wanting the same +/- blade deflection for flying inverted. There are no "set in stone" rules on where your 0* has to be in relation to the Tx stick. Alot of the scale guys/gals set it according to their personal preference b/c they don't need or want alot of negative pitch. Drev. +1 Drev.....thats what I figured so thanks for the confimation. @ Jon, I will try and do a short video showing where the position of my stick is in reference to the pitch degrees of the BW head.
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Post by chumley on Dec 19, 2012 11:35:35 GMT -4
There is more to this than just preference. Jon was talking about his mechanical setup before he even tried to set up his flybarless unit. I don't know the Blackwidow unit, but on controllers like the BeastX you won't ever get it set up with the blades that far out. Let's say the Black widow will - when he tries to spin the blades up with 9.5 degree of positive pitch, the heli will fly well before the blades get up to speed and the tail might not be able to hold resulting in an uncontrollable pyro and possible crash. Jon needs to get the geometry right then can adjust how much + and - with his pitch curve.
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drev
FUN FLYER
Posts: 198
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Post by drev on Dec 19, 2012 14:23:42 GMT -4
Some common sense has to be used on the base setup. 9.5* at the lowest stick position would not allow you to even land the heli(except crashing it). It would lift off as soon as the HS was fast enough & I don't think it would ever come down. Setting 0* at anything other than midstick is just pilot preference. You have to have 0* & some neg pitch for so the bird can be properly controlled. Where 0*is on the stick doesn't really matter as long as you have both pos.&neg. pitch. How much +/- can be set in the Bx (not sure about the BW FBL controller).
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Post by Jonathan Ott on Dec 19, 2012 20:53:56 GMT -4
I used the middle hole and lengthened the pitch links a little. Chumley, I think that is my answer. I ran my link out some and was able to get 0° and there is still engough stud in the tube and in the link. I didn't realize there was that much stud in the link. I am going to get a pack of nuts to use as a jam nut against the bottom of the tube though, just for peace of mind. Much easier solution than taking 5mm off the tube. Jon
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Post by Chris Reibert on Dec 19, 2012 22:08:38 GMT -4
Thx everybody for the great info! I love how this lounge works together to always step up to help each other
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drev
FUN FLYER
Posts: 198
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Post by drev on Dec 19, 2012 22:21:17 GMT -4
Jon, That' exactly how I set mine up when I first installed the BW head. Without the jam nuts the links have a little side play wiggle to them.
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Post by chumley on Dec 21, 2012 0:56:46 GMT -4
Jon, That' exactly how I set mine up when I first installed the BW head. Without the jam nuts the links have a little side play wiggle to them. Now, this is a potential problem with a DFC style head. When the feathering shaft rocks in the dampeners, there is a lot of pressure on the pitch links. Something has to give, so what do you want it to be? I let the pitch link threads as is so there was a little wiggle in the threaded shaft. If you tighten up the threaded shaft, the next place that could show the stress is the plastic ball links. If the links break you'll crash. Some DFC heads use flexible pitch links arms, the BW is not one of them.
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Post by Jonathan Ott on Dec 23, 2012 10:46:53 GMT -4
Okay, new issue: Anyone have a little wiggle room "flap" in their grips? My BW head grips can move up and down on the feathering shaft, where my FB head is solid.
I've checked the bearings, and the thrust bearing has the small race on the outside.
Jon
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Post by Dr. Evil on Dec 23, 2012 11:07:11 GMT -4
Okay, new issue: Anyone have a little wiggle room "flap" in their grips? My BW head grips can move up and down on the feathering shaft, where my FB head is solid. I've checked the bearings, and the thrust bearing has the small race on the outside. Jon Both BW head on my 550 and 600 are fine, I tried and wiggle them but they seem to be solid. You may want to check and make sure all the washers are there on both sides and re-torque them down. Btw, how much of a up and down movement are you talking about?
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Post by Jonathan Ott on Dec 23, 2012 14:39:34 GMT -4
Maybe a millimeter at the end of the grip.
Everything is torqued tight and when looking at the thrust bearing in the grip (blades off) and wiggling the grip, you can see the bearing is not moving, but the grip is; like it is overbored just a little bit too much.
UPDATE: I just watched the Finless video of him building the Compass 6HV FBL head, and my bearing stack is incorrect. It should go (from the head block out) Radial bearing -> thrust bearing -> spacer -> radial bearing-> washer -> bolt.
I have the thrust bearing on the outside...
let me re-build (yet again) and report back.
Jon
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Post by Jonathan Ott on Dec 23, 2012 14:52:13 GMT -4
Okay, never mind. the way our head is built, with the feathering shaft with a step in it, the thrust bearing has to go on the outside.
Now, how do I take up the slop?
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Post by Jonathan Ott on Dec 23, 2012 15:51:04 GMT -4
UUUUGGHGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
STRIPPED A FRACKING HOLE!!!!!
The outer hole on the grip, where the pitch arm attaches!
UUUUGGHGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
UUUUGGHGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
UUUUGGHGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
UUUUGGHGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
UUUUGGHGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
UUUUGGHGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
UUUUGGHGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post by Dr. Evil on Dec 23, 2012 16:59:56 GMT -4
Ahhhhh dude...sorry! I was just going to suggest a very thin washer or something....booooooo...sorry
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