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Post by goodhunting on May 11, 2012 8:58:16 GMT -4
HI I'm working on a dead slow build of a seahawk 500. Got the trex500 mechanics and decided to try out the flex cable, which came with the fuselage. Here I ran into trouble. Once I set up the tail and push the mechanics as far back as possible, the whole setup is still about 1cm too far forward. Am I doing something wrong? Could it be that the flex cable is too long??? The easy solution is to cut off the fuselage but I want to explore all the options before I make a single cut... gh Attachments:
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mike
ROOKIE
Posts: 8
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Post by mike on May 11, 2012 17:58:28 GMT -4
Maybe take a look at where the flex drive connects to tailrotor gear box and make sure it is fully seated in there. Then make sure it is fully seated in the mechanics. This is the fuse that uses a plastic tube for the flex drive to sit in and go back to the tailrotor correct. The other option if they are seated would be to trim the front of the fuse where you have it marked with a dremel tool. I know a lot have ditched the wire drive and went to the torque tube drive due to failures on the wire drive.i don't know how old your kit is or what version. What trex 500 do you have. The reason for what trex you have is the ESP is 840mm and the trex 500CF is 850mm. The 10mm difference will give you your 1cm problem.
Mike
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Post by doc121 on May 11, 2012 22:24:38 GMT -4
Hi, goodhunting. I got this fuse recently. The instructions Robert sent me showed to put a hole in the side of the fuse to install the bolt for the front struts. How did you put yours in without making a hole in the fuse ? I don't like the idea of punching holes in this sweet fuse.
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mike
ROOKIE
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Post by mike on May 11, 2012 22:51:24 GMT -4
Doc
You can probably flip the wood former like jestrr did on his 600 to attach it from the inside.
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Post by goodhunting on May 12, 2012 14:44:25 GMT -4
I have the ESP version...and have checked and doublechecked to see if the flex cable is fit all the way in the gearbox and tail section... After all this I still get the 1cm issue
On HF the suggestion was to fit it tighter... and simply to push the mechanics back, since the flex cable will form an "s shape"... I'm reluctant to do so but I may have to...
I have the ver 1 fuselage with the flex cable. I attempted to do a TT conversion but two things prevented me from this... One is the sideframes with lower TT gear are hard to get by... and the other point is that the tail part is too high for this fuselage. Apparently Align's fuselage has a bit taller tail section...
I did not want to cut the holes in the fuselage.. and at first I tryed to flip the formers... but in this process I figured out that the bolts were long enough that if I screwed them in, they reach almost to the side of the fuselage... this holds the wheel strouts firmly so I'm happy with this...
Will be getting a lower KV motor for this setup... to stay with the flex cable... I'm getting a 1000KV motor but am considering an even lower KV setup.. any suggestions?
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mike
ROOKIE
Posts: 8
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Post by mike on May 12, 2012 22:37:32 GMT -4
Goodhunting I would look at two things and maybe jestrr or someone can chime in. I have seen some assembly manuals using a century cable with the s bend in it. I don't know how that would work on a 500 size or not. A lot of guys have taken the collets off of the flex drive and resoldered them with silver solder due to the collet spinning off after 10 flights or so. If you did that you could keep the cable straightt and trim the cable to fit. Here is a link of with problems and solutions with the wire drive. I am in no means bashing this product. Here is the link www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=383580. This wire drive problem is what has kept me from building one of these fuse's. You might try and contact RCA with your problem and see what cliff or Robert has to say. I don't know if a belt drive system will work for you or not, but I have the scale side frames and elevated tailboom for a trex 500 the was used in the apache 500. I will give it to you if you are in the states if you want to go that route.
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Post by goodhunting on May 13, 2012 4:11:43 GMT -4
Mike
I'm aware of the flex drives snaping and that they need to be silver soldered at the ends... I guess I will have to do this as the first fix. While at it I might just cut off 1cm from it and this should suffice. As far as your offer... thank you. I will first try to fix this cable (I guess I'm a bit stubborn) and if I fail at it I might hold you up for the parts. I hit US in mid June and will be staying for a full year (got to love my job)...
is there a "simple" way to shorten the Align's TT tail extension? Something I could handle (mind you I am not a mechanical engineer and do not onw any fancy machinery to work magic with...)?
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mike
ROOKIE
Posts: 8
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Post by mike on May 13, 2012 5:16:17 GMT -4
I think that would be your best bet is to trim off the 1cm while you have it apart to solder the collets back on. I thought smart model had a 500 size tt conversion that everyone was using with a lot of success. I think this is the same conversion RCA carries but is out of stock. Are you going to use a multiblade tail rotor on your model as well. The align tt comes pressed in now. You would have to find a shop selling the pinned version which is a older version torque tube the part number is H50095. That would be the easiest way to go with trimming the align tt conversion down. You would have to order the conversion kit and the additional pinned torque tube which is the part number I listed above.
Mike
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Post by goodhunting on May 13, 2012 8:47:25 GMT -4
Got an Aling conversion (TT raised tail with 45degree transmission box) Don't know which part number it is since I'm away from home at this time... Will check it once I get back home... thanks for the info
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Post by goodhunting on May 14, 2012 10:48:02 GMT -4
Solved my problem... with the proper use of brute force... I work gently with the helicopters and this time it proved me wrong. I feel like a fool since the first thought I had and the first advice I got was to check if the flex cable sits all the way in...
I did check... but I never thought to use more force than I did.. so I disassembled everything and quadruple checked it only to figure out that there is still "room in the mechanics" for that missing 1cm....
However I did fix the four bladed head back... ordered a new motor for the setup and used a few good pointers from JoseReyes at FH and his build...
Now I'm waiting for the motor to arrive...
gh
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Post by Dr. Evil on May 14, 2012 11:18:45 GMT -4
Solved my problem... with the proper use of brute force... I work gently with the helicopters and this time it proved me wrong. gh Glad you got it figured out! BTW, I liked the "use of brute force" and then "worked gently" afterwards...LOL. Thanks for posting and please continue sending the pics and your build status/progress as I will be hopefully starting my first scale build soon and can use all the advise and help from all you scale guys here.
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mike
ROOKIE
Posts: 8
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Post by mike on May 14, 2012 16:55:37 GMT -4
That's cool glad it worked ou, I have followed a couple of Jose's builds and he seems to love the 4 bladed heads on his models. He has also posted a lot of trial and error issues which is great for someone having the same issue. Pics look good so far keep them coming
Mike
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Post by goodhunting on May 15, 2012 2:39:04 GMT -4
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Post by Dr. Evil on May 15, 2012 8:36:17 GMT -4
Very Nice!
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Post by goodhunting on May 17, 2012 8:25:06 GMT -4
Got the motor today... and got a great deal on it on an European web site... it's mounted and it spins like a champ... now for the SK 360... gh
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