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Post by chitty024 on Jun 3, 2013 23:53:27 GMT -4
What are you running in your Chaos 600 and what kind of flight times are you getting?
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Post by osidak on Jun 4, 2013 6:55:55 GMT -4
currently 6s 5A with the phoenixtech motor ICE 100 ESC on gov and I get 7 minutes with a final voltage of 3.71 to 3.75 volts per cell. Battery is hot as hell though
moving to 12s 3.3A staying with the CC ESC brand and a Scorpion motor. Hoping to bring temps way down and see about 7.5 minutes
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drev
FUN FLYER
Posts: 198
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Post by drev on Jul 8, 2013 16:59:28 GMT -4
Have a CC ICE100a ESC with Phoenixtech 1000kv motor using 5000ma 35c 6s packs getting 8 min. flight times. No 3D, just cruising around upright hovering, figure 8's, really bad stall turns, just basic flying. I'm just learning & want to eventually fly scale. Everything comes down just warm after a flight. CC logs look pretty good too Just got some THOR 5000ma 35c 6s packs today from RCFlightStore in BC. I hope they work as good as they look-EC5 connectors already soldered on & nice long balance tap wires. $115.99 ea. with free shipping in Canada. They still show some in stock.
I sure hope everyone is having fun out flying because the Chaos Lounge sure has been awful quiet lately.
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Post by edintexas on Jul 17, 2013 23:25:19 GMT -4
Had an opportunity to fly my 600 for the first time on my last trip home. But I ran into a heat problem with the ESC. My kit came with the Phoenixtech 1100kv motor, the Phoenixtech 115a ESC and I added a Castle BEC pro. I'm using Turnigy 5A, 6S batteries (35c I believe). I only hovered, no hard flying of any kind. Got four flights in over the course of about 3 hours. All 4 times the ESC went into low voltage cutoff mode after about 3 minutes. It was almost too hot to touch. I'm worried it might toast my heli. Any ideas what might cause it? The ESC motor timing is set to auto, battery type = Lipo, low voltage cutoff at the lowest possible setting. The batteries are low at the point it cuts off but I don't understand what's causing the high current drain and heat.
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Post by Chris Reibert on Jul 18, 2013 6:41:16 GMT -4
What are your batteries? Are they new or old? Is the cutoff set to sensitive or insensitive? Do you have proper air flow on the ESC? Might be a thermal shutdown if only hovering you don't get any airflow on the electronics.
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drev
FUN FLYER
Posts: 198
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Post by drev on Jul 18, 2013 11:19:26 GMT -4
What pinion are you using? What is your head speed?
I have the stock 170 tooth main gear using a 16 tooth pinion governed at 1780, 1690 & 1650 (IU2, 1 & normal) with no heat issues . I flew yesterday when it was 94*F/8min. flight & everything came down OK. Those head speeds might seem low to some ppl. but for my flying (no 3D) it flies really well. I use 0,30,30,30,30 in normal, 70,70,70,70,70 in IU1 & 95,95,95,95,95 in IU2.
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Post by edintexas on Jul 19, 2013 3:06:10 GMT -4
Head speed is around 1680 in normal mode while hovering. My wife checked it with my heli tach. I'm guessing but I think the throttle position is probably around 60% in a low hover. I'm using the pitch and throttle curves shown at the end of the assembly manual. Only hovered it a couple of times so far and I haven't used IU settings yet. Stock 170T main with 16T pinion. Bats are new. I have the battery tray in the tipped out position to move the CG a little farther forward so I mounted the ESC forward on the starboard side. It is under the canopy in that position. But we're talking gentle hovering here, nothing wild. I can't imagine airflow to be the problem but I can fly it without the canopy next time to verify that. The BEC is opposite it on the port side. I'm wondering if reduced power settings like in gentle hovering at relatively low throttle might actually be causing the ESC to have to bleed more energy in the form of heat. I'm going to fly it in IU1 on my next trip home and see if it runs cooler that way. I may play with the motor timing settings to see if that changes anything as well. Meanwhile suggestions are welcome.
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drev
FUN FLYER
Posts: 198
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Post by drev on Jul 19, 2013 12:06:43 GMT -4
The manual info is just a basic starting point. The ESC & motor should run cooler if you increase your throttle curve above 75% or higher. Use Idle-up & gov mode & see how it goes from there. Vaulkman (I think) has a video about the Phoenixtech 115a ESC somewhere on this site (sorry but I don't know how to put up a link) that should help with setting it up. I think (not sure) but setting up gov mode on that ESC also gives a soft start as well.
Hope this helps.
Drev.
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Post by sgmason on Jul 19, 2013 16:44:41 GMT -4
I found these two
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Post by sgmason on Jul 19, 2013 16:47:24 GMT -4
The manual info is just a basic starting point. The ESC & motor should run cooler if you increase your throttle curve above 75% or higher. Use Idle-up & gov mode & see how it goes from there. Vaulkman (I think) has a video about the Phoenixtech 115a ESC somewhere on this site (sorry but I don't know how to put up a link) that should help with setting it up. I think (not sure) but setting up gov mode on that ESC also gives a soft start as well. Hope this helps. Drev. To post videos, click the reply on the lower right, it brings you to an advanced screen. in the menu at the top there is a clicker board icon, click that and paste in the video address you got from YTs share link.
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Post by edintexas on Jul 20, 2013 6:04:02 GMT -4
First time I flew it I was a little nervous and stick banged the collective on takeoff. After that the guys at the club where I was flying as a guest pretty much insisted I program the soft start! (Thanks to Larry, Chris and Jim @ Fort Bend Heli Club for your patience! It's a great club.). So that's taken care of. I've had the YouTube videos downloaded for quite a while. Valkman's ESC is different from the 115A Phoenixtech Goldline that I have but it's good info anyway. I'm pretty confident I have it programmed right with the possible exception of timing, which I have set to auto. I would expect "auto" to be OK for most motors but I'll play with it anyway. Really thinking my throttle curve may be the culprit. I'm going to bump it up first and see if it helps.
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Post by chitty024 on Jul 22, 2013 23:18:40 GMT -4
I have read a few places that auto timing has caused some heat issues, not specifically with this esc but all together
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Post by edintexas on Jul 23, 2013 0:05:26 GMT -4
The timing options for my ESC are auto/2/8/15/22/30 degrees. Is it best to use the lowest timing the motor will run with or the highest? If I understand this setting, lower timing = longer flight time, less power. Higher timing = more power, shorter flights. I wonder which setting (low or high) would cause the ESC to generate the most heat. Also read that if the timing is too low for the motor it won't start but will just screech.
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Post by Valkman on Jul 23, 2013 14:07:04 GMT -4
"If I understand this setting, lower timing = longer flight time, less power. Higher timing = more power, shorter flights"
That is correct. I prefer NOT to use auto timing. I have read bad things about it. On my setup ( Aerial Rig ) I just want the lowest timing which in my case is 12 Deg as far as I remember. Any lower and the motor spluts and farts on spool up.
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