|
Post by osidak on Dec 13, 2012 20:34:04 GMT -4
Currently flying it as a 6s with 5A batteries. Getting about 7 minutes flying very gently (the only way I know) using a ICE 100 running in governor mode.
Going to 12s for a few reasons 1 - increase head speed as the max I can get out of it while governed is ~ 1800 and she has a bit of a wobble at that head speed. 2 - At the end of the flight the batteries are running around 140 degrees
Planning to also go flybarless at the time using a blackwidow head.
So a couple of questions I know you halve the amps when doubling the voltage so in theory I should be able to go to a 2.5 amp battery and keep the same flight times. I will be using a Scorpion HK 4025-630 instead of the Phoenixtech 1100. Would 2.2 amp batteries be ok or should I plan to go with 2.65's or even 3 amp batteries
I have not decided on the ESC yet - I am comfortable with Castle brand and I have all the gear to hook them up to the PC while in the model ect but I not really wanting to drop the coin for the 120HV which would clearly keep me out of an over amp condition or save about $100 and go with the YEP 120 (supposedly a YGE Clone) - What do you guys think?
As to the flybarless gyro. I know the BW gyro is well regarded however I do not know any one local with one. I do know people using the Tarot and also the KDS E-bar and both of those seem really solid. That said if the BW is heads and shoulders ahead then I will figure it out and bug you guys.
|
|
|
Post by Valkman on Dec 14, 2012 6:22:22 GMT -4
I just went 12s and stretched to 700 and I only flew it basic flights to get it setup for to put my camera rig on it so I cant say too much. I used the HK clone 120 ESC which is great but it is a pain for me to get it into programming mode with the programming card. I might be doing something wring though. I can say it has a very slow start up and it does not get warm with 2*5000 batteries on board. Which by the way I was getting about 3 mins hovering around for 1 amp. So 12 mins flying around basic stuff should be possible. Also the Zippy batteries fits snug inside the frame up front when you remove the front battery cover. The batteries go nearer the motor then it balances perfect. It would not take much to make a frame brase above the batteries. I would also think about beafing up the main gear to KDE. RCA sells them. There is a few here that have 12s setup so they can tell you more as mine is grounded after test/setup flights to put the camera rig on. PS your right I did not like my 600 below 1900 which was the max my kv motor at the time would run.
|
|
|
Post by osidak on Dec 14, 2012 21:45:33 GMT -4
Thanks for the input - by removing the battery plate (forward member of the frame) do you have any worries of structural soundness. I realize you are using yours as a camera ship so would not expect high loads and I am no where near flying 3D or even simple stunts but I want to make sure I don't come apart in the air either.
|
|
|
Post by Valkman on Dec 15, 2012 6:07:50 GMT -4
I had the 2 Zippy batterys on top of each other taped together with insulating tape. It was not permanent so not much effort there. This slid into the frame up towards the motor. It was a nice snug fit between the frame. As I said you could make another brace above the batterys so the frame is supported at the top and bottom with the baseplate. Would you notice as structural difference? I don't know but I don't think so. Do it yourself and and see before you go cutting anything. This is the battery that I got and as said fits snug between the frames. www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8590I have the gimbal off it at the mo and working on it in the girlfriends. I might be home later and if I get a chance ill put the upfront and take a pic for you want. We will see then how much room would be left on the top of the batteries for a brace
|
|
|
Post by Valkman on Dec 15, 2012 6:11:40 GMT -4
I just remembered here is a pic of the batteries on another topic here chaoscrewlounge.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=600e&action=display&thread=748The canopy still fits perfect with the setup. It looks like there is plenty of room and holes there already for a brace above the batteries. I hope this helps and gets you thinking! Ops just remembered....I have more weight in the back of mine because of the longer boom and extra braces so this worked for me. But still it may give you ideas. There is others here that should be able to recomend gear ratios etc for getting the performance you want as I wanted low HS with good torque.
|
|
|
Post by osidak on Dec 15, 2012 10:13:35 GMT -4
Ok I see now - I was thinking you had them vertically mounted. Looks like you could easily put another one of the rear braces in (metal rod)
Those are the same batteries I currently have. For weight I guess I could drop to either a 3 or 4 amp battery. The weight difference between the the 5A and the 3A is 249g. Double them up I come out with 289g more in the nose (according to the HK website)
At 12S 3A that should give me about the same flight times if not slightly more. Not sure how the KV of the motor will come into play since I am not halving them 1100 to 630
Again thanks
|
|
|
Post by chumley on Dec 15, 2012 11:45:15 GMT -4
I did a 12S setup on mine. I just strapped two 3000mah 6S packs to the front and it fits no problem. You are getting a lot of fly time out of your setup at 7 minutes, but if you drop back to less than 3000 packs on 12S and run a higher headspeed, you will get less. If you want longer run times at a higher headspeed, then you probably want at least 3300s. I used a CC 80HV esc and have no problems. Like you said - double the volts cuts your amps in half so the 80HV has 60% more capacity at 12S than the 100 at 6S. An Align 600 would come with a 1220kv motor and that's what your helis gears were designed around. You are running an 1100kv motor so you will have a slower headspeed. When I went to 12S I swapped out the gears and main gear case (one way bearing) for the Trex 600EFL Pro set (same as Trex 700). These gears are much more stout, have slant gears that are smoother and stronger, and have a more suitable gear ratio for a 550kv 12S motor or a 1100kv 6S motor. The only thing you'll need to swap out is the autorotation gear as the one you have won't fit on the new main gear case - let me know if you want the part number that works with the EFL Pro and your tail drive gears. With my setup (560kv motor, 12S, 600EFL Pro gears, 12T pinion) I am able to get over 2400 on the headspeed if I want - more if you go to the 13T pinion.
|
|
|
Post by osidak on Dec 15, 2012 12:02:11 GMT -4
Great info - thanks. When I have a little more time I will reread and digest a little and then come back with any questions if you do not mind
Oh as for flight time - with my current flying (really new guy) a the 7 minute mark I land with just hair over 3.7v per cell
|
|
lee
PARK FLYER
Posts: 68
|
Post by lee on Dec 15, 2012 12:56:10 GMT -4
I just upgraded mine to 8S. I can't tell you how it is, cause i've only had three flights and three incidents. First was a servo wheel stripped, second was the beastX went crazy and flipped my bird into the ground, and the third was my fault, missed thread lock on a couple of tail case screws. So two forced autos and one crash. But she is all back together again and ready for the fourth attempt. I was told by a few guys that out of 8,10 and 12S, 8S was the best all round for flight times and power to weight ratio. Good luck with yours.
|
|