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Post by osidak on Aug 2, 2012 9:13:03 GMT -4
here is a jst-xh here is a HP/PQ The charging leads are what you decide to go with - I think many of us use the EC5 connector which looks like this As an aside I use a parabpoard for charging - rarely use it for parallel charging except for when I am getting ready for a session that will have multiple packs flown and all my packs are at the same level of discharge but makes for a nice neat and clean setup The EC5's are obvious - the white blocks are the balance plug ports - each EC5 has a 2S through 6S balance plug port and the you have the positive/negative leads that connect to the charger and you have a 6S balance lead as well. Sorry for all the pictures but they help me and sometimes I can get a little picture happy - hope that helps
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Post by heliofaguy on Aug 2, 2012 15:32:11 GMT -4
I really like the paraboard. I'll have to order a couple of those boards with the balance plug covers. Covering the balance plub is a really good idea since I have the KDE aluminum bottom plate upgrade on my 600E. I don't need any shorts. I'll definitely look into these boards.
I did visit my LHS today and bought an extra HX adapter and some bullet plugs. I just need to put together a charging power lead for my other battery with the bullets on one end, and EC5 Male connector on the other.
Excellent info, thanx guys.javascript:add("%20:D")
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Post by Dr. Evil on Aug 2, 2012 21:38:22 GMT -4
Ok good, looks like everyone is good to go. Thanks for the info. Osidak.
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Post by heliofaguy on Aug 3, 2012 10:28:02 GMT -4
Mounted the Elevator servo like you suggested inside the airframe. Worked great. Got the batteries charged and the CC BEC-Pro programmed for 6V. I have DS610 Cyclic, and DS650 Tail servos. I bound to the AR8000 receiver and am starting the CCPM setup. Taking my time to make sure everything's correct.
Thanks everyone for your helpful suggestions.
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Post by osidak on Aug 3, 2012 13:21:25 GMT -4
Glad it worked out for you - I think the most time consuming thing is getting all the mechanic setup the same and level. Take the time getting everything right at the swash and the rest is easy
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Post by heliofaguy on Aug 4, 2012 0:26:43 GMT -4
Well, I seem to have hit my first snag. I programmed the PhoenixTech 115A ESC per the instructions. The motor produced the beeps loud and clear. I set all the appropriate settings, really the only one I changed from factory defaults was the Soft Start #1. Everything else is factory defaults. Just to make certain, I went in and selected all the factory defaults to make certain there weren't any changes in the instructions. I was thinking of using Governor mode, but I think I'll wait on that for now.
I bring up the system and the motor doesn't spin up as expected. I have the main rotor and gear out of the heli to avoid any unexpected spin-ups, but nothing happens. My Normal Throttle Curve I have set to 0, 50%, 80%, 90%, and 100%. Throttle Hold is not on, and I have my Flight Mode switch set to 0 on my DX8 for normal F-Mode. The transmitter is showing the throttle channel changing as I advance the stick.
I've checked all the leads leading into the motor, and I have continuity into the motor. I had to crimp on new wires as the ones that came with this motor were only an inch long. I was unable to solder the leads on as the wires are coated coming out of the motor in such a way that they can't accept solder. RC/Aerodyne sold this used motor to me for a good price. Maybe too good. Do you have any suggestions for testing this motor to see if it is any good. Is it possible I may have a bad ESC, although, the programming went without any problems. I'm missing something simple, I just know it, but I can't seem to figure it out. A little help from your collective experiences would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by sgmason on Aug 4, 2012 0:42:41 GMT -4
Doesn't spin as expected, as in odd spin up or doesn't spin at all? I am sorry I have been out in the sun all day and my mind just isn't grasping what you are trying to say I don't think that anyone from RCA would sell you a bad part. I don't know what I did to my Phoenixtech 115, but just lest say it was a pretty smoke show that made me run
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Post by Valkman on Aug 4, 2012 7:08:53 GMT -4
I would make sure you have good contact on the crimps you used. Check continuity between the start of the ESC and the wires going into the motor. Push the probe through the insulation if you have to. I would not use crimps to be honest. Try using a butane burner on the wires to remove any coating , clean them and try solder again. If there is a coating on the wires this may be insulating the wire from the crimp. You should be able to test the motor by checking the resistance between all the 3 wires. They should be equal.
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Post by heliofaguy on Aug 4, 2012 7:36:45 GMT -4
It just occurred to me that the ESC is not beeping when I power up the system which tells me that it isn't getting what it needs from the motor and therefore not arming. I have continuity from each banana plug past the crimp into the motor on each of the 3 wires. That was the first thing I checked. It must have sensed the motor when I did the programming, though, cause the motor was giving out beeps as expected. Very strange.
I'll try to find a way to remove the wire coating from the wires exiting the motor and solder things together. Does it matter which of the 3 wires on the motor are connected to the 3 wires of the ESC? That was totally not clear. I connected the red motor wire to the A side wire exiting the ESC, the Black to the middle wire, and the yellow wire to the C side exiting the ESC.
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Post by osidak on Aug 4, 2012 8:30:25 GMT -4
If you are getting the the cell count beeps then the motor is seeing power (I had a similar issue) the ESC doesn't make any noise at all the motor is what makes the noise.
So if you get the cell count beeps but it will not spin at all you will need to adjust your throttle end points so that it allows the ESC to arm - Basically it is a safety thing to prevent you from plugging in the battery and the heli promptly cutting off your head.
I am not familar with the Spektrum radio at all but I have a thread on here where some of the guys walked me through it.
I started with the Phoenixtech speed control and dumped it because I could only fly for 3 minutes before it over heated and shut down on me and the slow start is not really that slow. I am now using the castle Ice 100 and slow starts are like 18 seconds and smooth as can be and I get 8 minutes of hovering on a 5A battery (I put 3.6 to 3.8A back in)
I would offer up my 115A Esc to you but it over heats so it wouldn't really help you
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Post by heliofaguy on Aug 4, 2012 17:44:26 GMT -4
My ESC is the PhoenixTech 115Amp also. The motor is beeping just fine while programming the ESC. Once I'm done programming the ESC, and I reset the electronics to test the motor, I get no beeps, and the motor does not respond to throttle. So, I'm wondering if I've got something set in the radio keeping the ESC from arming. The endpoints on the throttle channel are both 100%, and I have a linear Throttle Curve for Normal Flight mode set up according to Finless Bob's ESC programming video.
Not sure where to go from here, but I'm still looking. I have to believe the motor is just fine, unless it uses totally different circuitry to perform the beeps that it does to turn the motor. I know the throttle channel is not reversed cause programming the ESC worked normally by putting throttle stick to high throttle and powering up the electronics, the ESC went right into programming mode as designed.
One thing I haven't done is to check the receiver, etc., to make certain it's normal. This AR8000 is new to me, and I've got the Telemetry module installed as well and that's how I bound to the receiver with the Telemetry module Bind button.
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Post by Dr. Evil on Aug 4, 2012 17:55:54 GMT -4
The endpoints on the throttle channel are both 100%, and I have a linear Throttle Curve for Normal Flight mode set up according to Finless Bob's ESC programming video. Ok, just took a look at my radio to double check. Go to your "sub-trim" section and make sure the throttle is set at zero! If is set on anything other than zero, it will not fire up...basically a fail safe so that the blades does not spin up by accident.
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Post by heliofaguy on Aug 4, 2012 20:11:33 GMT -4
Sub-trims are 0, even the trims on the radio during setup are all zero which are the electronic trim tabs. They start at 5. Nothing seems to change the behavior of the ESC/motor after programming. There has to be something I'm missing in the radio, cause the motor and ESC were communicating just fine during programming of the ESC.
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Post by heliofaguy on Aug 5, 2012 0:13:32 GMT -4
I discovered that the ESC somehow is tied to the Throttle Cut setting in the radio. When I set a throttle cut setting from inhibited to the HOLD switch, the ESC sent the 4 beep arming signal to the motor and activated the motor. It was just turning slowly until I advanced the throttle. Holy sh_ _ .
So, I want throttle Hold to work, but the motor continued to turn when the Hold switch was thrown. So I need to figure out how these things work together. Pass along any suggestions you might have. I can use them. Thanks for the help guys. At least I know the motor works. Yay!
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Post by chumley on Aug 5, 2012 7:24:41 GMT -4
On my DX8 and Castle Creations ESCs, I have to increase my throttle end point to get the ESC to arm. Put your radio in the mode where the ESC doesn't arm and the motor spins slowly, then call up the Servo Setup menu, select Travel, then Throttle. Increase the lower end point slowly until the ESC arms. The end point will start at 100% and can be increased to 125% - my Castles usually take over 120% before they arm. Once you have the end point set, the ESC will arm and the motor will not spin.
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