mike
ROOKIE
Posts: 8
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Post by mike on Mar 13, 2012 12:41:10 GMT -4
Chipwich,
Sent you a pm with some info
Mike
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Post by bobbyra on Mar 16, 2012 19:59:32 GMT -4
The Century four bladed head is a nice head and flys nice.
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Post by chipwich on Mar 24, 2012 17:19:11 GMT -4
Chipwich I thought that was the case with the head. With drilling out the Jesus bolt use a drill press if you have one or see if a machine shop will drill it out. I would not try and use a handheld drill unless that is your only option. I am following the information on the other forum as well. I have looked at some things from just scale as well. Let me know about the sleeve RCA just came out with a 700 size rotorhead that looks good, maybe they will make it in a 600 size. I will send a pm to the gentleman I talk to and forward it to you so you can get info when you need it. Mike Mike, that info was spot on. I removed about an 1/8"of material from the top of the shaft with a bench grinder, and then drilled the hole with a # bit in my drill press. It fits perfectly, and was not as difficult as I had expected. Now I need a photo of how the follower mounts. Will try copter doctor at run ryder.
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mike
ROOKIE
Posts: 8
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Post by mike on Mar 24, 2012 17:54:26 GMT -4
That's cool I was wondering how the build was coming along. Can you do me a favor and see how far your mount for the rocket pod goes into the fuse to mount. I was looking at mine to see how far it needs to go in and looks like just enough for the screw to go in through the wood. I did not get a manual so just wondering.
Mike
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Post by chipwich on Mar 26, 2012 10:18:43 GMT -4
Mike, I didn't get a manual either, but am using the one from the 700 size fuse. I suppose that it is a pretty simple build, although for first timers like me it would have been good to have a little guidance. My fuse is boxed up while I get the mechanics going, but I've been meaning to get it out again to look at light placement. I ended up buying the RCA light kit and will probably run the bottom and rear red flashers, which I can see in photos, but also thinking about running the top one too. Regardless, I'll check me weapons mounts ASAP. My build won't be anywhere near the quality of this one, but I'd sure like to know how he did his decals. Need to read back through the thread. The ones in my kit are black/yeallow. I really like the subdued black or gray or whatever it is on this build. Build status: The frame and rotor head are mostly finished. The hold up? I've got a 14 month old daughter who takes a lot of care, and I need a control arm collar, since one of the two that came with my kit are the wrong part. Calling RCA today. I also need to clarify how the Century follower should mount. I have a rough understanding, especially after looking at the 4 blade head video posted above (thanks bobbyra), but mine is different.
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mike
ROOKIE
Posts: 8
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Post by mike on Mar 26, 2012 10:43:21 GMT -4
Yeah that is an amazing model, and would be a winter build. The 700 size fuse is a good size to do that too you could do a 600 as well but would have to pay attention to weight. I just use stick on stencils for my lettering and remove once painted. As far as decals you can search around and find a lot of other items. I found a 101st airborne sticker for my 500 size that is going on the nose above the numbers. You can look at my 500 LittlBird thread and see the stencils and then the paint afterwards. I have pictures of the nav light placements if you want them. There is a red strobe on the tail and right below the strobe is a solid white light. There is nav lights on some models right behind the second door mid way up. Then the red strobe on the belly along with the landing light. I will post a link in a few minutes. Let me know how the RCA light kit works out, still on the fence with buying one. I use rc-lights for my light kits. Just remember to take your time and after a few scale builds you will be amazed at the work you can do.
Mike
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mike
ROOKIE
Posts: 8
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Post by mike on Mar 26, 2012 10:47:13 GMT -4
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Post by chipwich on Apr 23, 2012 17:50:33 GMT -4
Update 23 April 2012 If I hadn't mentioned it before, Mike, that was a great link to the AH-6 walk-around. Thanks. Sorry that I haven't moved any faster, but this is my first build. I am gathering all of the stuff like tools and spares that a lot of you more experience scale types have, plus learning every step of the way. What takes someone like nuttcaze, who built his beautiful Bell 206 in a couple of days, takes me exponentially longer, because I am still hunting an gathering. Then there are the little gotchas along the way like parts not being available, and changing directions a few times as to how I will power the RX. Anyway, this past weekend I made quite of bit of progress on the mechanics. Along the way, Mike mentioned that I would probably need to grind off a bit of the mainshaft in order to get the Jesus bolt holes to line up, as well as enlarge the hole was spot on. For some reason I can't embed images, so links are to images. It was about this much out of alignment...Then there was the question of how the follower mounted. I called Century and left a voicemail with tech support to that effect, which was not returned. Poking around the net, I found a couple of examples of builds that were close enough to determine how it should be oriented. I ordered scale blades from Ron at www.justscale.co.nz, who custom cut them to 550. After I ordered them I found a couple of posts from people who had not had the best of luck flying them. They are flat on the bottom, and me being a full scale plank pilot thought that heli blades should be that way too. Then I looked a little more closely at some reference photos of real AH-6s, and see that the real blades are symmetrical. Oh well, I will try the scale blades first before ordering something else. They sure look the business. Ron said that they are balanced, but I have no idea how you would balance 5 blades. More skills to learn. Then there was the whole RX pack vs. BEC discussion here. I had pretty much decided to run a separate pack, but then had a long chat on Sunday with my LHS, who tried to convince me to solder the CC BEC Pro leads onto the power leads coming from the ESC. This was based on discussions that they had had with the Castle folks, who said that the problems had been related to builders wiring up the 10A version with multiple packs. When I got home, I searched the CC web site for BEC Pro specific info on the CC site, and decided to wiring it to the harness on the negative side, as they recommend with the lower rated BECs. The reason that I did this is even though the BEC Pro is rated at an maximum input voltage of 50.4v, that this is too close for comfort. I don't really gain anything by wiring up that way, other than convenience and keeping the harness neat. I do like having the BEC though on one of the main packs, because it will always have a fresh charge, and be just as reliable as separate rx pack on a BEC. I like the BEC, because no mater what 2S or greater pack I connect to it, the output voltage will always be 6v, which is what the Align servos like. To that end, last night I got my three Align 610 head servos mounted and connected the BEC to the AR7200BX, connected a 3S pack that I comes from my 450X, and bound my DX7s. I then connected my laptop to the BEC with Castle Link and configured the output voltage to 6v. I then tested my servos and too my surprise, only one of them moved in the wrong direction. Watching the BeastX controlled the servos was pretty cool too, as it returned the them to center point as I relaxed control input. This being my first build, I couldn't help feel like Dr. Frankenstein watching the beast come alive. This all without venturing into the BeastX configuration, which is a little daunting at first glance. The messy workbench of a mad scientist...
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Post by Chris Reibert on Apr 23, 2012 18:53:10 GMT -4
Wow just went through all the pics of that bird over on scalerchelis.com OMG that thing is Wild!!! The Pilots even looked real..
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Post by Chris Reibert on Apr 23, 2012 19:00:24 GMT -4
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Post by chipwich on Apr 23, 2012 20:11:47 GMT -4
Yeah, Hank79 pretty much set the bar for AH-6's. Mine will look pretty plain in comparison. I'll be happy if mine just gets in the air without ripping itself to pieces ;D
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mike
ROOKIE
Posts: 8
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Post by mike on Apr 23, 2012 20:26:47 GMT -4
Chip,
You should be good, it will fly fine. Hank79 spent I think nine months on the little bird so it was and is a amazing helicopter. How much more time before you get it in the air.
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Post by chipwich on Apr 24, 2012 8:06:02 GMT -4
Mike, I installed the pitch and aileron wheels, and connected them to the horns last night. Elevator tonight. I made good use of the JR link resizing tool as most of them were really tight. Man, I don't know how people did this stuff before the Internet. I guess hang out at your local RC club and find a "mentor". So, I think that I will finish installing the motor and head, before working on the tail, but if I can get a little bit done each night, I should be ready to maiden the mechanics probably not this weekend, but the next. That is based on the usual build a little, then order a part or two scenario. Still haven't solved for how to mount two 6S 5000 mAh batteries. Flying cutting board perhaps
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mike
ROOKIE
Posts: 8
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Post by mike on Apr 24, 2012 9:03:05 GMT -4
Yeah, I had some great mentors on my first scale build. That is the best thing being able to sit and talk about it. The Internet is good but you get some that like to count rivets and that's not what it is about. I am glad to see this scale section take off was wondering at first. Glad your build is going well and all copter doctor is a wealth of knowledge along with jestrr that just joined the board he built my skids for the lonranger and has a nice 407 project he just did.
Mike
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