gugie
FUN FLYER
Posts: 154
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Post by gugie on Feb 25, 2012 2:14:56 GMT -4
Thanks Dr Evil! When i compare my work to some of the other members out there my stuff looks pretty rough! Nevertheless I've really enjoyed building this heli. I've really enjoyed cruising the other forums as there is some really great information out there!
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gugie
FUN FLYER
Posts: 154
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Post by gugie on Mar 3, 2012 23:53:14 GMT -4
Dang this work (My real job) stuff keeps getting in the way of me having fun. Next is the antenna. This was actually pretty easy with the hard part being figuring out was the angles were for the antenna bends and how the stanchions were positioned. First was to figure out where the stanchions were attached to the fuselage and then doing some rough measuring to see at what length to cut them. I did this from pictures on the internet of the Tiger that showed the antenna. These stanchions were made from brass tubing with small rings soldered to the top to hold the aluminum tubing. I made a simple jig (if you can call it that) that was nothing more that clamping the stanchions tubing in a "Helping Hands" clamps and then using a copper tubing the same diameter of the antenna positioned the ring on top of the stanchion tube so that the support ring was mounted perpendicular to the stanchion and then added tension by stretching rubber bands on the copper rod. I forgot to say that I also notched the top of the stanchion to better hold the antenna ring I made tubes double the their lengths and then a little more and then soldered antenna rod holders on each end These were then cut in half I bought a long piece of aluminum tubing and bent this to the shape that mimicked the real Tiger antenna. Each stanchion position is marked based on the pictures I had as well as the shape of my aluminum antenna. Holes were drilled slightly undersized so the stanchion tube was going to be a snug fit. Here the antenna has been threaded through the stanchions and mounted on the Tiger. As of today these stanchions have been painted (Not the antenna) but are not epoxied in as I want to place mounting blocks inside the fuselage for better support so am waiting till I get ready to take the mechanics out for some other detailing before doing this.
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bobsp12
FUN FLYER
The CHAOS theory rules my life
Posts: 155
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Post by bobsp12 on Mar 5, 2012 6:46:22 GMT -4
Beautiful work gugie....those wire cutters on the landing gear look fantastic.
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gugie
FUN FLYER
Posts: 154
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Post by gugie on Mar 5, 2012 12:24:50 GMT -4
Thanks Bobsp12!
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Post by Valkman on Mar 5, 2012 14:55:38 GMT -4
You took the words right out of my mouth Bobsp12. I really enjoyed the pics and read great work lad.
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gugie
FUN FLYER
Posts: 154
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Post by gugie on Mar 5, 2012 21:01:38 GMT -4
Guys thanks for the compliments! Really appreciate them. Hope i can get a few more detailed write-ups this evening.
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gugie
FUN FLYER
Posts: 154
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Post by gugie on Mar 6, 2012 2:32:37 GMT -4
Steps, handholds and pitot tubes Adding the steps/handholds was pretty easy with the key being the screen mesh that i happened to have left over from by model boats. Again using website pictures i figured out the location of the steps/handholds (in the Tiger each step has a grate that does not go all the way to the end of the step rod so it serves as a handhold also) I thought i had a good picture of a step/handhold close up but couldn't find it in my collection. So this is the best one i have in my collection. First I counted the steps on each side and then marked where these were located on the fuselage. So on the port side there are 3 steps and 1 handhold and on the starboard there are 2 steps and 1 handhold. To make these I first bend brass rod to the shape and size planned and then cut and CA'ed the screen mesh to the brass rod. A little trimming so the screen mesh does not hang over the edge. Drill holes in the proper locations and I slipped them in. Since this picture I've airbrushed the steps to match the color of the Tiger. The pitot was a little harder as the mounting tube is somewhat oval in shape. I made this by taking some brass tubing and flatting it somewhat. I placing a smaller drill bit inside to give me the rounded edges Unfortunately i forgot to take pictures of the pitot as i was making them so will have to explain what i did. Once the pitot mounting tube was formed i filed notches where the pitot tubes got mounted on the main part. on the port side there are several tubes while on the starboard side there is only one. once there were notches it was easy to then drill a hole the size of the pitot tubes. again i drilled them so the pitot tubes were a snug fit. The pitot mounting tube was capped by soldering a flat brass plate to the end and then just filed so it was flush with the tube. The end of the pitot was made from aluminum tubing that was glued inside the brass pitot tube and then chucked in a drill and filed to a point. Then they were placed inside the pitot mounting tube and soldered. Also the pitot tube mount is angled downward as well as forward on the real Tiger and where the pitot mount enters the fuselage there is a mounting flange that i made from some thin brass sheet cut and then ovaled out to allow the mounting tube to slide in and at the right angles and then soldered. OK so I'm pretty sure I confused you so here's what it looked when the above was done and mounted.
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gugie
FUN FLYER
Posts: 154
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Post by gugie on Mar 8, 2012 2:56:01 GMT -4
So now I'm working on the hatches. I've never cut out hatches so through some reading, thought that I should be using a hot knife to cut through the fiberglass. I went out and bought a hot knife, (Looks like a soldering iron but has a Xacto type blade at the end) unfortunately this did not go as smooth as I would have expected. My first cut (right side) seemed to do some damage to the fiberglass. My second cut (bottom)was made by taking a new Xacto knife blade and I kept on scribing till it cut through. My second cut was so much cleaner i decided to do this for the rest of my cuts. It takes a while to cut though but the cuts are so much cleaner. It's not so much using the sharp edge of the blade as it is the scribing action to cut through the fiberglass. Since I needed to have a inside frame for the door to rest against when it's in the closed position I cut a frame out of styrene. Here's the door with the frame clamped in position Here's a pic of the door from the inside with the frame. Here's the door temporarily placed Sooo here's where i need some help. The hinges should be pretty easy as on the real Tiger it looks like it has several regular hinges so i should be able to use some miniature hinges to pivot the door on. My question is what is everyone else using to keep their hatches closed? I thought about using miniature magnets but then how do you grab an edge to open it? Would like to hear from everyone as to how they do this..... Thanks in advance......
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gugie
FUN FLYER
Posts: 154
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Post by gugie on Mar 9, 2012 14:12:33 GMT -4
No one has any ideas for securing and opening functioning hatches?
I still could go with the idea of small magnets but still not sure how i would get them open after they are shut. I could use an exacto knife but really don't want to have to do this every single time i wanted to open the hatch. I need to have these hatches as this is the only way of getting to the rear mounting bolts on the mechanics since my previous way was to come through the inlets. But since I've put the screens on I would have to take off the screens now to get to them. Not a big deal since i don't plan on having to take out the mechanics too often i hope.
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Post by Dr. Evil on Mar 9, 2012 14:29:17 GMT -4
No one has any ideas for securing and opening functioning hatches?I still could go with the idea of small magnets but still not sure how i would get them open after they are shut. I could use an exacto knife but really don't want to have to do this every single time i wanted to open the hatch. I need to have these hatches as this is the only way of getting to the rear mounting bolts on the mechanics since my previous way was to come through the inlets. But since I've put the screens on I would have to take off the screens now to get to them. Not a big deal since i don't plan on having to take out the mechanics too often i hope. I got an idea but please keep in mind, its coming from someone who have never done a scale fuse..LOL. Ok, here's my big idea....actually I 've 2. The first would be to add a small metal plate on the backside of that hatch which you'll need a magnet (perhaps one that will be stronger than the ones you're using to secure the hatch itself) to open it. By attaching the metal plate and using the stronger magnet which you'll place on the hatch to pull open. 2nd idea...which will require some hinges to be added to the hatch. I am thinking of adding a micro servo (if you've enough channels to spare) with a linkage act as an arm to open and close the hatch itself. Not sure if any of these would help but good luck.....
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Post by Valkman on Mar 9, 2012 14:46:36 GMT -4
Wow.....you stole my idea! The first one.....
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gugie
FUN FLYER
Posts: 154
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Post by gugie on Mar 9, 2012 22:18:18 GMT -4
Dr. Evil... GREAT IDEA!!!!! I have some miniature hinges and different size magnets so think the metal plate on the backside and using the stronger magnet to open will work. Easy and i have everything to do this!!!!! Excellent idea.... THX
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Post by Dr. Evil on Mar 9, 2012 23:37:12 GMT -4
HaHa...glad it was helpful, maybe i do have what it takes to tackle my first scale fuse project...LOL
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gugie
FUN FLYER
Posts: 154
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Post by gugie on Mar 22, 2012 12:56:15 GMT -4
Haven't had much time in the last several weeks to do anything with the hatches but i did get a inlet cut out and a insert with a screen completed. Will try to post some pictures tonight. Once work slows down a bit I'm anxious to get back to the hatches to try the magnetic latches to see how they work.... Thanks again for the suggestions.
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